TINY Antigua, 14 miles long and 11 miles wide, is one of those famously paradisiacal islands that actually lives up to the hype. Pristine beaches (there are 365 of them, if you can believe the tourist brochures) fleck the coastline, and everywhere you look there is yet another exhilarating view of sea, cliff or tropical landscape. An array of ?ber-luxurious resorts have cashed in on the lush surroundings, and provide their well-heeled guests with so many hedonistic diversions that many never emerge to see what lies beyond the resort gates.