Hands-on: Breguet Nautical Tourbillon 5577

This year, Breguet launched an “entry-level” tourbillon movement in its marine collection. Available in rose gold or platinum and priced in the high six figures, these watches are simple sports watches with tourbillons. It's not the most natural combination, but it manages itself in a way that's charming, if not perfect. After using the rose gold version for some time, I can say that the Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577 is an undeniably attractive watch that has very few issues for me.

Even though the dial is the main attraction, I think the dial is also the weak point of the watch. There's certainly a lot to like here. The slate gray dial features alternating finishes, with the hour and minute rings providing a matte contrast to the sunburst base. The beveled brand name and sunburst pattern throughout are a nice touch. The phone features a novel offset, bisected luminous design that looks attractive in the hand or on the wrist. The simple tourbillon bridge reveals low-key sophistication. This isn’t some huge gold tourbillon cage with dramatic construction (although Breguet does offer some, if you prefer).

Where the design fails is in the hour and minute markers. Mind you, I don't really care about these things when I'm admiring the watch on my wrist, but I'm definitely giving it some thought when I examine it more closely and edit these photos, which is to say, they're things that make a difference when you Wearing your watch for a considerable amount of time can cause problems for you. First of all, the luminous hour markers and luminous minute scale are far less refined than the rest of the watch. The sans serif font and rounded corners are almost child-like next to the brand logo and tourbillon.

These hour markers and markers are standard for the nautical collection, but are made even more striking thanks to the addition of a tourbillon and the effect of the tourbillon. The minute track at 4 o'clock protrudes awkwardly, creating an unnecessary imbalance on a watch already equipped with an offset dial. On Breguet's classic tourbillon, the tourbillon has its own complete seconds track, while the minute markers are simply omitted. While I don't think the second chime would look good, I strongly wish the chime was simply interrupted. Also, I think giving the center dial the same wave pattern found on many marine timepieces would help balance the interest of the markings.

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This case doesn’t look out of place with the Marine series’ design. The rose gold case is warm and inviting, with a fluted middle case, and features the Marine collection’s signature crown and equally unique crown guard. The case is mostly polished, but the three-prong lugs have a crisp brushed finish. I've always loved this case design and personally it doesn't disappoint, it's easy to wear and feels absolutely classy, especially for a six-figure watch with 100m of water resistance. The rubber strap is comfortable and I appreciate the nautical continuity of the ship's wheel buckle. The overall effect of the Marine design is exactly what I imagined Breguet intended: a watch that brings a bit of sportiness to this heritage brand. At the same time, it's a sporty elegance rather than an elegant movement: the watch remains firmly positioned on the formal side of things, and the tourbillon only reinforces that. (For those who must have a Breguet but want something sportier, the only real option is the Type XX.)

The Breguet Nautical Tourbillon 5577 is equipped with the beautiful self-winding Caliber 581 movement. This is the brand’s simplest tourbillon design yet still technically and aesthetically impressive. This decoration gives the back of the watch a more vintage feel than the dial side. The ornate compass covering the mainspring barrel, the wavy pattern engraved on the peripheral rotor, and the large serif font remind me of finely detailed old maps. Côtes de Genève stripes and edges give the board a more elegant look. The Caliber 581 movement delivers an impressive 80 hours of power reserve at 28,800 vph.

Breguet does an admirable job of showcasing its signature complication, even if it’s difficult to pair with the Ocean’s sporty case and dial design. Ultimately, it doesn’t quite embody coveted horology like a classic tourbillon. When I put it on, I wasn't bothered by its imperfect design, which I think is probably as important as my watch. While it may not be an ideal combination, this watch delivers on Breguet's promise of a high-end, beautiful timepiece with a superior movement that looks good, even if it may not be the best in the brand's catalog Tourbillon.